Oh, McCall's 7127! I want to like you so much! So do lots of other people apparently! This pattern came out a few years ago, and I finally bought it during a Jo-Ann's pattern sale. It wasn't on my “immediately buy” list, but it was a pattern I kept coming back to, so I finally grabbed it and made it up. It's one of those patterns, though, that requires a really specific type of fabric and a body that fits it perfectly. It's not an easy pattern to alter and it's definitely a pattern that could go very wrong if the fabric is too drapey.
I first made it up in a really stiff poly-cotton I've been dying to get rid of, and I have to say that this muslin worked fairly well. Well enough (no pics, though), that I cut into some lovely merino wool knit that I bought during one of my bi-annual trips to Osgood's Textiles in Springfield, MA. I love Osgood's–huge walls filled with giant bolts of wool fabric twenty years old, mislabeled bins, the same people working there for over a decade or more. When we were there on the second of July, the owner was shutting down early so that the entire store could have a “family” bbq outside. It is a very, very New England store. It's definitely the kind of place you go to find unexpected treasures and lots and lots and lots of upholstery fabric.
Anyway, the resulting top is not too bad, but the fit is pretty awful, if I'm being truthful. This design . . . I dunno. I feel like the shirt either needs dropped shoulders or a cross-over back, but not both. With both elements, you basically get wrinkle lines coming and going, and not much way of sorting them out. I mean, is there any way that you aren't going to get fold lines with a dropped shoulder? Especially if you need a rather stable knit so that the back cross-over doesn't just droop down like cool back cowl you didn't really intend?
The front isn't too bad, so long as you don't look at my armpits. I brought the sides of the neck in a bit because I don't like boat necklines that show my bra straps. That seems to defeat the purpose to a lovely boat neckline, and there's no way I'm going to wear a strapless bra with a long sleeve wool shirt. Nope.
Not terrible. Not great. The neck could come down a smidge, I think–it's right up at my collarbone in this version.
The back should be the lovely part of this top, and I'm not convinced that it's really that great. Instead it has a tendency to just look lumpy and wrinkled. Yikes, right shoulder!
I generally need a swayback adjustment (which I hardly ever do), so it's not terribly surprising that I'm getting those wrinkle lines at the waist. But clearly a lot of other sewers have had a similar problem; I have yet to see a photo where there isn't a fair amount of bunching both horizontally and vertically. It's a weird fit, in that there's a ton of excess fabric, but visually it looks like I had to squeeze into the top. Very odd.
So, I'm kind of torn on this pattern. I really like the shape and the v-neck in the back, and I totally love using wool jersey for this pattern–most of my wool knits are fairly stable, which is exactly what this pattern needs. But I'm not sure if it's really worth trying to pinch out some of the back to smooth out the lines or if I should just move on to another pattern. I will say, though, that I actually wear this shirt quite a bit, even with all the wrinkling. It's a great top to wear when the weather turns a bit chilly–perfect for when I work at home but don't want to just be in my PJs all day. Given that, I'm pretty tempted to give this top another try.