For a while now I've wanted some woven scoop neck tops that I can wear in the summer–just something simple and easy to make (without all the fuss of a full collar). I also wanted them to have a button placket, just to keep it interesting, since I have way too many buttons in my stash and really need to start actually using a few of them.
So I hit on Burda 7198 as a possible perfect pattern: tunic style, simple three-quarter sleeves, and a nice scoop neck.
I don't love this pattern, which I've tried to indicate here by apparently taking back-lit photos that block out all the details.
Even in great lighting, though, I don't love the pattern. To begin with, there's a very weird horizontal dart along the waist of the back of the pattern. A few other reviewers noted this; I think it is to make the shirt feel more fitted, but honestly I think it just looks as though there was a terrible serger accident and you had to replace the bottom half of the back of the shirt. So, I just left the dart open.
Next, the placket is off of center, so that the edge of the placket is along the center line (rather than the buttons). Frankly, it just looks weird to me. Also, the pattern asks you to tuck the placket to the inside, and does the standard Burda “finish edges.” So in a lightweight fabric like this, the end of the placket both flops around inside and also doesn't look that great. From the outside, too, it feels . . . unfinished. I changed the location of the placket and did an arrow placket with the bottom of the placket on the outside.
The pattern also asks you to use bias binding, but not to enclose the neck edges. I think you're supposed to fold a strip of binding in half, stitch it to the neckline, and then turn it to the inside. That leaves you with an unfinished edge on the inside, though. And it doesn't actually enclose the raw edge of the neckline. Instead, I did bias binding and turned the whole thing to the inside and then topstitched.
This fabric, which I picked up during my annual trek to Osgood's Fabric in Springfield, MA, is such a fun picnic table aqua gingham; such a shame it starts to fall apart when you even look at it. I did french seams for pretty much everything, but even after a few wears the seams are already starting to rip a bit. The neckline also stretched out during sewing (despite stay stitching), so it doesn't lie quite as flat as I would like.
I figured the fabric might partially be at fault with this pattern, so I decided to use up some precious J Crew fabric (with a slight stretch) that I got from FabricMart years and years ago. I must have really loved this fabric when I got it because I've been hoarding it for years thinking I had only a precious 1.5 yards, only to discover that I have 4 yards of it!
I'm glad about that, since I don't love the second shirt, either. It's got all the problems of the first one, and it seems to hover about a 1/4″ off my shoulders, which is always a little weird–as though my blouse is skittish and always trying to escape.
I'm still wearing it, though–it's a nice, easy, cool blouse for summer, and it doesn't look terrible. I think I'll give this pattern a rest, though–I'm more likely to just hack Oakridge into a deeper/wider scoop neck and see if that works better. Luckily, I'm apparently flush with pink dot J Crew fabric for a second version.