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Seamster Avocado Hoodie in . . . avocado?

 
Joe, mugging for this photo shoot.

I first came across the Seamster patterns forever ago and the Avocado hoodie has been on my list for a long time. I don’t even remember who first turned me on to Seamster patterns (in fact, it was so long ago that they used to be called something else . . can’t remember what). I bought the combo Men’s and Women’s hoodie pattern, since it’s cheaper than buying both patterns separately and I’m definitely going to make one of these for myself. The PDF was fine–it’s really well laid out with a cheat sheet about which pages to print depending on which version you’re making, which I always appreciate. Why print more than you have to!
Back view. The pockets in the back do seem to gape a bit, unfortunately, but I think that’s user error rather than a problem with the pattern. This way, though, you get to see the stripes!

Anyway, this is a great, fun pattern. Seamster has figured out ways to make sure that sewers get good results on knits (banded waist and cuffs, for instance, so that you don’t end up with a horribly wavy waistband at the very end, which is what we all really hate about sewing knits, right?). The pattern has some really wonderful details and seam lines, as well, although those seam lines can make the hoodie a bit more difficult to fit since there are no side seams. I’d also say that the sizing is generous. Joe usually wears a medium in RTW and I made him a small in this pattern (based on the finished garment measurements). It fit his measurements exactly but, as you can see in the photos, he’s got plenty of wiggle room.
He really likes the back pockets. I don’t know how often I’ll actually get to use them, but they are such a cute and cool feature.

I did make a few changes, although I didn’t take great notes so I don’t entirely remember what they all were. First and foremost, though, I changed the pockets–at least, I think I did. I started off using the instructions for the version with the pocket tabs. Then Joe tried on the hoodie and the pocket tabs frankly looked kind of dumb. They stuck out and they really obscured the otherwise great streamlined look of the hoodie. So, I took them off (all four of them. I wasn’t really following the instructions at this point, so I just sewed the pocket jersey to the pocket seam allowance. That gave me a really nice finish on the pockets. When I make this hoodie for myself, I’ll have to see how they suggest you finish the pockets. I did add the clear elastic to both sides of each pocket opening, to make sure they don’t stretch out too much, but I’m not crazy about how it looks. I think next time I’ll use a cotton elastic–maybe the soft bathing suit elastic–to help keep the pockets closed more. On Joe’s version the pockets are definitely open most of the time, which is fun because you can then see the lining, but it would be nice if they didn’t gape quite so much.

Side view–great seam lines, right? Such a cool pattern design. This pic is a little blurry because he was dancing (literally) around while I was taking photos.

The other change I made was to line the hood with the same fabric I used on the pockets (a great lightweight jersey). I simply sewed the striped lining jersey to the green main fabric (wrong sides together), trimmed the lining fabric seam allowance (to help the seam roll to the inside on the hood, and then treated the hood as one piece after that. I also didn’t topstitch the hoodie as instructed, nor did I use the facing piece provided. I have to be totally honest and confess that topstitching on knit fabric can sometimes looks really home-sewn and, of course, you always run the risk of stretching the knit and getting the dreaded waviness. Instead, I just attached the hood, serged the seam allowance, and left it at that. I used the overlapping hood, so you can’t see any of it, anyway, and it still looks nice on the inside. The overlapping hood also means you don’t need a facing, as far as I can tell, since the hood never flips out to reveal the seam allowances, which is what the facing would help prevent.
No topstitching on the hood. Notice, though, that Joe has been wearing this so much that he’s already got a stain on the front of it. Nice.

That’s pretty much it! A really fun pattern and I can’t wait to make another one for myself. I’ll be using the same fabrics, since I have a ton of this green knit and I really love this color. Plus, it just looks so cool with the stripes!

What a goon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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