patterns

Vogue Winter/Holiday 2013 Releases

Yay, new Vogue patterns! Of the big 4, Vogue produces the only patterns I collect, even if I have no intention of ever making them. Ralph Rucci–absolutely–I'll buy pretty much any of his patterns, even though it's totally not my aesthetic. Remember that gigantic space jacket Guy Laroche pattern Vogue put out a while ago? Totally bought it as soon as it went on sale at Jo-Ann's. I can't imagine ever making it, but I pull it out every once in a while and chortle.

Anyway, some lovely patterns this time around and (thank goodness!!) they've finally quit having the models pose in utterly ludicrous positions that make it difficult to see the clothes. Maybe someday they'll stop making things in black, too. So, here are the ones that seem most interesting from this round, beginning with V1371

They chose a tough fabric for this dress–dark background fabric + large flowers = we can't see the details and the flowers look awkwardly cut up along the princess seams. Luckily, there's a line drawing:

So much better. Tracy Reese rarely disappoints–her designs always strike me as very flattering and yet very wearable to a number of different venues, depending on the styling. I could see this being a very cute LBD, especially if the bottom were done in a wool crepe and the top perhaps in a voile or challis. Or make it all in one fabric for a more casual look. The dress reminds me of this old BWOF dress, actually: 12/2008/130.

Nothing groundbreaking about this pattern (V8943)–I feel like there are a lot of versions of this running around. That said, if I wanted to know how to do a really sharp lace overlay, I'd probably go with this pattern. Claire Shaeffer's patterns are usually great, and Vogue generally provides good technical instructions when dealing with unusual fabrics (such as lace). The yoke underneath the waistline in this pattern is also a great detail–avoids bulkiness over the hips while still giving a great fullness to the skirt. Plus, cute purse there, lady!

This version of the dress (V1370) is totally so bland. Her stance makes the black cut-out on the right side fade into the shadows, and the blue-black combo (while generally nice), just doesn't do much in terms of setting off the great lines in this dress. Is it just me or does the model end up looking kind of thick waisted in this dress? But check out the line drawings!

So cool. I'm guessing this is a dress that would look better in high contrast: black with red accents, grey with yellow accents, etc. The blue and the black here just make it look kind of boring. Not sure about those sleeves, either–I think I'd probably shorten them to be more of a cap sleeve and less dowdy.

First, the shirt (V1378). It's alright. I feel like I own a Banana Republic version of this shirt already. And I gotta say–that's a whole lot of gathering on the hip, there! This model is crazy skinny and the fabric sticks out like an extra inch on the right side. The back view isn't great, either:

The fabric is too transparent, so the pants are really throwing off some of the lines here. In general, I'm a fan of ruching around the hips to help disguise any little bumps, but the combination of fabrics seems to be creating a lot of ridges. Also, the shirt just seems too long for the model, at least in the back view. Makes her legs look shorter than they are (especially in those wedges).

The pants are kick-ass, though. And they'd be even more awesome if they weren't in a black fabric that renders invisible all the seam lines. Why, Vogue, why? I mean, first of all, it's not like we all won't assume these pants could be made in black. But we might find them unexpectedly intriguing if you presented them in burnt orange, merlot, or even a mustard yellow–at least then we'd have a fighting chance to see the seamlines! Anyway, here they are:

Remind anyone else of the Oh La La Papercut leggings? I'm guessing this will be a popular pattern if only for those pants. Also, I can't quite tell–are those seam lines or actual flaps on the pants? I think I like them better as seam lines.

This is a pattern (V8946) that, I suspect, would make a great, stylish, maternity dress, especially if done in a stretch woven. I wonder how difficult it would be to alter the pleats at the belly? Hmmm . . .

Could be done, I would imagine, although it might be more work than it is worth. This reminds me of another burda pattern, but I was too lazy to go look it up. I think it was an LBD issue and was sleeveless. Also, while I really like this fabric, the pattern repeat on the back of this dress makes my eyes twitch.

The pattern repeat is really bad–too close to appear to be random. I did this once on a shirt, wore it to a conference, got back and realized what it looked like. Never wore that shirt again!

I'll probably pick up a few of these, at least–I'd be especially curious about V8946 as a maternity dress for my sister-in-law. I wonder if it would work in a ponte knit? Or a stretch woven?

In actual sewing news, I got hit with a couple of sets of essays, so sewing time decreased while grading time increased. I decided to take spend my precious sewing time maing up Vogue 8816 in a poly chiffon I've had for ages. Lots of ridiculously meticulous french seams later . . . it's too small, causing the cowl to drape very, very unattractively. And I even made a muslin and everything! I've put it in the closet until it feels cooperative. If I eventually forgive it, then I might try a remake. In the meantime, though, I'm feeling grumpy about Vogue 8816 and have decided to go back to an old standby New Look pattern. We'll see how much I get done this week.

 

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